I came relatively late to the pastime of wine tasting. Since the only two states in which I have lived are California (undisputed leader in North American wines) and Washington (second in volume to California and growing like gangbusters), and since my favorite travel destination is Italy (home of Chianti and centuries-old winemaking traditions), it's only natural that I would eventually partake in The Noble Grape.
I began paying serious attention to wine about 5 years ago. Today, I am neither a "connoisseur" nor "common sewer," but somewhere in between. And in this world of superstores and mega-mergers, one thing I appreciate about the world of wine is that small, family-owned, "Mom & Pop" operations still thrive.
The Italian Model Italians are the original locovores. In an age of fast food and globalization, Italy retains an economy based on small business, small-scale agriculture, and mom-and-pop retail. The wineries reflect this. Many wineries throughout the country are very small in scale and are family owned. I have had the good fortune to find a favorite that is both a wonderful winery and a lodging establishment. La Gigliola, located about half an hour away from Florence, opened my eyes to the delicious wines of northern Italy and remains my favorite place to stay. See their wines at http://www.lagigliola.it/en/wines_oil.php.
Hidden Gems In Napa It's easy to disparage the "bloated toads" that some California wineries have become. Multi-national conglomerates spew out $100-plus bottles and charge $40 tasting fees, and tour buses clog the once-bucolic two-lane roads of Napa and Sonoma valleys. But if you do a little digging, there are still delicate roses to be found amongst the thorny thickets. One such winery is Burgess Cellars. Not exactly a "Mom & Pop," this venture is a "Dad & Son" project. "Dad" is Tom Burgess, a Midwest transplant who purchased a 100-year-old Napa Valley vineyard in the 1970s. There he raised his family and continues producing wines with marketing help from his son Steve Burgess. Both men are jacks of all trades, providing hands-on management of all aspects of the vineyards and winery. Tom has employed the same winemaker since 1972, and their flagship Cabernet Sauvignon is a testament to this experience and consistency.
Washington: Where Tiny Wineries Thrive Being a Washington State native who makes her home in between the Yakima Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area -- a wine grape growing region geographically and climatically distinct from others) and the Walla Walla AVA -- two of the state's premiere wine-producing regions -- I could spend hours listing fabulous wineries within an hour's drive of my house. Wineries of all sizes thrive in Washington. But there is still room for the classic Mom & Pop operation, and here are three noteworthy ones.
Hinzerling Winery is the Yakima Valley's oldest family-owned and operated winery. Established in 1976 by the Wallace family, the winery specializes in small lots of unique wines, including many fortified and dessert wines (they were pouring four ports at my last visit -- and I purchased three). Their no-frills website at http://www.hinzerling.com/ and their no-nonsense, workaday tasting room in Prosser belie their serious commitment to amazing winemaking. You'll find no pretense on the part of Mike Wallace or his family members or small staff. When asked "How long should I hold this wine before drinking it?," I've heard Mike answer, with a straight face, "We suggest you get it at least as far as your car." Don't miss their artisan wine vinegars.
Paradisos del Sol, just up the Yakima Valley in Zillah, is a true Mom & Pop operation. Paul Vandenberg, his wife Barbara Sherman, and their son Kevin do everything from the viticulture (growing the grapes, weeding, picking) to the enology (crushing, blending, "making" the wine) to the business (keeping the books, working the tasting room). Kevin has a jellybean store and wine charm store within the tasting room. They typically prepare housemade nibbles to sample along with your wines, as wines are, after all, meant to be enjoyed with food -- a concept they take seriously. Paul's philosophy is to "let the grapes become wine," as opposed to turning them into wine by chemical and other means; he calls himself a winegrower, not a winemaker. As a final testament to their intent, he explains, "We drink more of our wine than anyone else, (therefore) we want it to be healthful and nutritious. We guarantee our wine." Learn more at http://www.paradisosdelsol.com/.
Compared to Mike Wallace and Paul Vandenberg, Brent Goedhart is a newcomer to the Washington wine scene. But he and his wife Sarah are making a go of it on the slopes of Red Mountain, Washington's smallest AVA, but one with a killer reputation. Brent and Sarah and their young family live among the Syrah vines from which they create their wine (http://www.goedhartfamily.com/). Production is limited (408 cases of the current release, a 2008 Syrah), and their commitment to terroir and tradition is their hallmark.
Sally O'Neal is a travel and outdoor writer as well as being a food and wine enthusiast. She writes about her trailside observations weekly for sportsmansguide.com.